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Unpacking Kolkata - A Center for Art, Culture, History & Food

 


Kolkata is a city close to my heart as there are few cities where we have stayed for a considerable time during our childhood. Kolkata was the first of those and hence a place where I developed close friendships and long-lasting camaraderie. So when it was an opportunity at hand to go out and visit the city again, I pounced on it with both my hands. This article is a summary of our experiences in form of a glimpse of the city and some recommendations for you if you are planning a visit to the city.

Introduction to Kolkata

Kolkata is one of the largest cities in the eastern part of the country. It is in fact the second largest city in India and one of the 'four founding metros" of the country. In a lot of ways, it is also a connection between the mainland to North East India. Kolkata is located on the banks of the Hooghly River and sits within the lower Ganges Delta. It is also very close to the international border with Bangladesh (almost less than 75 km away) and hence has strategic importance as well.

Kolkata was just a village before the British came to India and not even the capital of Bengal. Until British made it one, the capital of Bengal was Murshidabad. When the East India Company's dominion transitioned to British Rule, Governor General Warren Hastings moved all important offices from Murshidabad to Kolkata. From 1772 to 1912, Kolkata was the capital of India, when the British moved the capital city to Delhi.

Kolkata is known as the City of Joy and is full of life and bustle. It may seem like chaos to an outsider but there is a method to the madness. This madness makes it a city with a unique flavor.

To know more about the city's history, visit the official tourism website of West Bengal Tourism.


Starting the day with iconic Ambassador Taxi

Preparations and Logistics

Kolkata is not an unfamiliar city for us and hence we did not opt for a packaged tour or outside help. We decided to take it easy and follow in our own footsteps. We did extensive research as we do for any trip and consulted some of our friends from the region. This was to acquaint ourselves with how the city would have changed over the years. Our last encounter with the city was over a decade ago.

From an accommodation perspective, we came to know that ITC has a new hotel in the town called ITC Royal Bengal. This is considered to be an iconic structure on the Kolkata skyline and hence we opted to give it a try. Anyways, one meal at this hotel came highly recommended, and hence we decided to make it our home for the stay in Kolkata. Here is a link to our TripAdvisor review of the hotel - Wonderful Stay - A Destination in Itself


A glimpse of holi celebrations at ITC Royal Bengal

For local transport, we relied on radio cabs, yellow ambassador taxis, and the metro. Kolkata has a good metro network and is a reliable (and faster) mode of commute for longer distances. You will find the ambassador taxis at most of the tourist sites and other popular corners of the city. Even if they are not stationed, you should be able to hail a moving one. Radio cabs are a good option as a backup - given they take a few minutes to come to you.

For a detailed itinerary of the trip and other details, visit our overview article at

Kolkata & Sundarbans – Trip Overview

Flavors of Kolkata - What is on Offer

Kolkata is truly a city of diversity offering something to cater to everyone's taste. While there is strict devotion, there is also an appreciation for modernity. While they enjoy nature and history, they have an equally strong sweet tooth. In this article, we aim to introduce some of the flavors of Kolkata. Trust us, no amount of time in the city would allow you to do justice to the topic, and hence, this is just an attempt - at best!

Religious and Spirituality

Kolkata has a number of religious sites and the devotion to the city's deity is unparalleled. Even if you are on a short trip, a visit to at least one of the Kali temples should be on your itinerary. Here are few religious events/sites that you may want to target.


First stop - Dakhineshwar Kali Temple
  • Dakineshwar Kali Temple - This is one of the newer Kali temples in the city. This is built over a large campus and has magnificence in every sense. Located quite a distance from the city center across Hoogly, it is an important seat of the deity and worth a visit. There is direct metro connectivity to the temple (through a skywalk) and the entire process is well set out.
  • Kalighat Kali Temple - This is one of the oldest temples of Kali in the town and is a revered destination for devotees. Again this is conveniently brought on the metro map. For those visiting for the first time, be cautious of touts.
  • Durga Puja Celebrations - If you want to see how to celebrate a festival and the extravaganza that could go into it, try visiting Kolkata during Durga Puja. It is a feast to experience such a mega event and the electric environment all across.
  • St. Paul Cathedral - This is a large church located around the Victoria Memorial and known for its wonderful architecture apart from being an important place of devotion for Christians.
  • Belur Math - Belur Math is the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Math and Mission, founded by Swami Vivekananda. It is located on the west bank of the Hooghly River, Belur, West Bengal. It is a place of pilgrimage for people from all over the world professing different religious faiths. Even people not interested in religion come here for the peace it exudes. This is located close to the Dakineshwar Temple and can be clubbed together.

St. Paul Cathedral

History and Heritage of Kolkata

The city has a vast heritage because of the history it has from the times of the Britishers and beyond. Here are some of the heritage sites that you may like to cover during your trip.

  • Victoria Memorial - This is a museum in the central part of the city and is a magnificent building known for its architecture and magnanimity. In addition to the history associated with it, the monument is surrounded by vast, well-manicured lawns which are a wonderful place to hangout or rest for a while to break the sight-hopping.
  • Prinsep Ghat - This is a monument built as a memorial for the orientalist James Prinsep. Located on the banks of the Hooghly River, it is known for its unique architectural style. It is also a great viewpoint for the cable-stayed bridge and Howrah Bridge. You can also take a short boat ride for wonderful views of the two bridges. We recommend trying during the sunset for the best views
  • Fort William - Bulit in the early British Raj, this mighty garrison is now the headquarters for the Eastern Command of the Indian Army. There are some permissions involved and hence can be skipped if you are not too interested in the site.
  • Indian Museum -  Indian Museum is the earliest and the largest multipurpose Museum in the Asia-Pacific region. It is a great stop for those interested in history.

The confused kid at Victoria Memorial

Culinary Delights - Sweets and Savories

Bengal is as much known for art as it is for its cuisine. Across north India, it would be difficult to find a sweet shop with no mention of Bengali sweets. Equally strong in its foundation is Bengali cuisine especially surrounding their fishes. Here are a few places to try out.

  • Misthi Hub - Bengali sweets are famous far and wide. This recently established joint brings all the prominent brands/shops of Kolkata together under one room. Located close to Gate #3 of Eco Park, it is definitely a must-visit place.
  • Palk Street - To explore the evening life and busting streets, Palk Street is the place to go. There are a number of cafes, bakeries, and restaurants to entice you on adding calories to your trip.
  • Camac Street (and others) - There are a few street food vendors around Vardan Market on Camac Street. You cannot return from Kolkata without eating puchkas!
  • Esplanade - Another food destination especially for sweets. Most of the big brands have outlets here. Try KC Das and Ganguram for sure.

Puchka Time!

Science and Modernity

While one may think that this is a city of history and performing arts, however, it has an equal bent of a scientific mind. There are many firsts to the city including the metro, tram, Science city, and bridge structures.

  • Howrah Bridge - This bridge is the most recognizable landmark for Kolkata. The cantilever bridge is believed to be one of the longest in the world (at least until recently). This is also known as Ravindra Setu in honor of the great poet.
  • Science City - Kolkata has the first Science City in India. This is a center to trigger inquisitiveness in young minds within a playful arena. In case you are visiting the Science City, please keep the major part of the day for it.
  • Eco Park - A recent addition to the city, this Park is a vast area of varied flavors. There are multiple activities and food joints in the entire park. There is also a section with replicas of the seven wonders. If you can, spend a good part of your evening here.

Nature and Tranquility

Kolkata is a big city and hence nature is not something that intuitively comes to mind. However, Kolkata has its share of gifts from nature. Here are a few things that you could try to be closer to nature:

  • Time with the River - Either take a boat ride or spend time over a drink on one of the jetties or both to enjoy the subtle nature within the city. Sunsets across the Hooghly are mesmerizing views. You could also pick one of the dinner cruises for added experience.
  • Sundarbans - If you want a deeper dip into nature, Sundarbans are a short drive away. Explore more of this largest mangrove ecosystem in the world in our article <>

A surreal evening view across the cable-stayed bridge

Things to Remember in Kolkata

  • Be open to the culture as the city has its own unique culture - gel with the locals and understand their aspirations and life.
  • Choose your days carefully - Most historic monuments are closed on Mondays and temples are rushed on Tuesdays. Be mindful of such intricacies or ask a local
  • Estimate time generously - Sometimes we plan to hurry through sites in a rush to cover all. So plan to spend time generously e.g. Science City and Eco Park would at least take half a day and a visit to Prinsep Ghat should take an hour
  • A boat ride in Hoogly is a must-do activity that is budget friendly and scenic. We recommend taking it around sunset. Try to be in the river until 6:15 PM when the Howrah bridge is lit up.
  • Dinner or drinks on the Jetty - There are many restaurants and bars which extend to the river as jetties and they are wonderful spots to spend the evening.

Time to head off home

This is our experience from the trip to Kolkata and would love to hear your experiences, suggestions, or critique. Feel free to comment or send us a social media hi!

Leaving you with a link to my earlier trip to Kolkata - Kolkata Reunion – Old City New Places

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