Kashmir Trip in a Nutshell - Itinerary, Experiences, & Learnings

We spent a week in Kashmir during the summer of 2022. We had heard so much of this destination but couldn't visit it until this time. Kashmir is full of natural beauty and fantastic history but it is seldom in news for that. While the region's law and order has stabilized and Covid-19 restrictions were eased quite a bit, we planned a visit to this state in the lap of nature and nestled within the mighty Himalayas.

Kashmir - An Introduction

"If there is a heaven on earth, it's here, it's here, it's here!"

In most literature, these quotes are attributed to Jehangir, a Mughal emperor from the 17th century, when he arrived in Kashmir. While we may argue that Jehangir was not well-traveled outside of the Indian subcontinent and hadn't been to the Alps, these words are not too much of an exaggeration. You only realize nature's blessings to this region in terms of raw natural beauty and mesmerizing views of valleys and mountains.

Kasmir is part of the overall union territory of Jammu and Kashmir (recently brought into the ambit of federal jurisdiction) and is an important area both from strategic and tourist points of view. It is equally a destination of spiritual pilgrimages. The region has a good agricultural environment and is famous for saffron and apple plantations. Apart from these, the land is known for its artisans and Kashmiri wool handicrafts (especially pashmina shawls) have found fame, the world over. With all that you hear about this region and any apprehensions you may have, this is definitely something that you must visit once to indulge in the beauty of nature in the lap of the Himalayas.

There may not be all the information you need, but the government's tourist website may be a good place to start your planning - J&K Tourist Development Corporation.

A Summary - Logistics & Itinerary in Kashmir

How to get into and around Kashmir

Kashmir has a number of entry points and you could choose your mode of transport. The state is connected to the rest of the country through national highways. These are in decent shape and regularly maintained. However, you need to be cautious of the fact that these are shared with armed forces so there are regular blockages during a military movement. Also, the weather sometimes leads to the closure of these highways. There are trains that go until Jammu and you can take a cab or bus to Srinagar or other parts of Kashmir. While the journey is scenic and exciting, we avoided the long road/train travel because of the kid. The only option then left was the air route.

Srinagar is the primary civil airport in the state. While there are helipads and military airstrips in the interior, there are no civilian planes flying into those. Srinagar is an international airport and is decently facilitated to handle the tourist rush. You will find all the basic utilities you may need from an airport, however, do not look out for luxury. Generally, land routes can be unreliable in terms of timelines and hence we recommend spending a night in Srinagar, both inwards and outwards to ensure peace of mind.

New Delhi to Srinagar	Srinagar to New Delhi
Indigo 6E 2124 (1.5 hours) Landed in Srinagar at 2:30 PM	Indigo 6E 559 (1.5 hours) Landed in Delhi at 5:30 PM

Our flights to and from Srinagar

What about local travel?

For local and intercity travel, taxis are the primary mode of transport. Srinagar has a good public transport system with buses and autos. However, in other cities, cabs are the only practical option. You could either choose to have one car for the entire trip or pick cars for each leg of the journey. Even, if you take a single car for the entire trip, you may have to travel in different cars in some of the areas (your primary car driver may arrange if you have so discussed) as unions are pretty strong in this region. Outside cars are only allowed at designated spots (mostly on the show of hotel reservations).

We had engaged with MakeMyTrip for this vacation and they subcontracted a local tour operator for the transport part. In most cases, we found the drivers to be timely and courteous but they would always push for an early start which sometimes did not make a lot of sense. So, do your research well!

What all did we do - a day-wise log

We spent a total of 8 days in Kashmir spread across four cities. Each city has a unique flavor and offering, yet linked to the common theme of surreal natural beauty. If you want a sneak-peak into how we arrived at our itinerary and logistics, read Kashmir Trip Kickoff – Planning and Travel Logistics

Day and Date	City We Covered	Accommodation	Description
Day 1 - 18-Jun-2022	Srinagar	Young Bombay Heritage Houseboats	Traveling from New Delhi to Srinagar Spending time in a houseboat and exploring Dal Lake (shikara ride)
Day 2 - 19-Jun-2022	Sonmarg	Hotel Village Walk Sonamarg	Traveling from New Delhi to Srinagar Spending time in a houseboat and exploring Dal Lake Sonmarg sightseeing
Day 3 - 20-Jun-2022	Gulmarg	Heevan Retreat	Traveling from Sonmarg to Gulmarg
Day 4 - 21-Jun-2022	Gulmarg	Heevan Retreat	Gulmarg sightseeing and gondola ride
Day 5 - 22-Jun-2022	Pahalgam	Heevan Pahalgam	Traveling from Gulmarg to Pahalgam
Day 6 - 23-Jun-2022	Pahalgam	Heevan Pahalgam	Pahalgam sightseeing - Aru and Betab Valley
Day 7 - 24-Jun-2022	Srinagar	Lemon Tree Hotel- Holidays Selections	Traveling from Pahalgam to Srinagar Srinagar Sightseeing
Day 8 - 25-Jun-2022	Srinagar	-	Traveling from Srinagar to New Delhi

Our detailed itinerary

A Glimpse into Key Destinations (Touristy Spots)

Below are some of the touristy spots in Kashmir which had adequate infrastructure to support the requirements of travelers. There are obviously higher reaches that are more suited for adventure lovers - no doubt they offer much greater beauty and bring you much closer to nature. Whatever towns or spots you choose, it is important to remember that when you are in the mountains, the journey is your destination. The views that you capture on your journey are what you are there for - no city or destination would offer anything much different. So, it is important to pause now and then and stop by to indulge in nature on your way. Remember to keep enough buffers on your travel time to make this happen else, you are just moving from one rigor of daily life to another rigor of the race to cover points.

Srinagar

Srinagar is the summer capital of the erstwhile state of Jammu and Kashmir and is now of the same union territory. It is a relatively larger town compared to other cities in the region and has all facilities to cater to tourists. The primary attraction here is a stay in a houseboat and exploring the dal lake. There are a number of gardens and shopping areas to explore on your trip as well.

For a detailed blog on Srinagar, please read Srinagar - What and How to Explore The City

Sonamarg

Sonamarg means Meadow of Gold and is a picturesque hill town in the state. The town is known to have a lot of significance in the old times. This is because it was the gateway of the Silk Road, which connected Kashmir and China. This is also a great base camp for Ladakh. If you are in the town, we recommend either hiking or taking a pony ride to Thajiwas Glacier. The journey is a bit exhausting but the effort is worth the views that you end up with. Also, take a quick tour of the Snow Point (or Zero Point) and Zozilla Pass to come up close with the white flowery snow and some indulgence. The town also offers an opportunity for white water river rafting, if you are inclined.

For a detailed blog on Sonamarg, please read Six Things to Do in Sonamarg, Kashmir - Scenic Hill Town with Amazing Scenery

Gulmarg

Gulmarg translates to Meadows of Flowers and is a skiing destination in India. It is located over 2650 meters above sea level and boasts of the world's highest golf course. Gulmarg is adorned with lofty snow-capped mountains, lush greenery, small lakes, and a large variety of flowers. The main tourist attraction in Gulmarg is the Gondola ride to the higher regions of the Pir Panjal mountain range where you get to play with the white powder in plenty. Apart from that, one could take a trip to the Gulmarg Biosphere Reserve and Alpather Lake.

For a detailed blog on Gulmarg, please read Gulmarg, Kashmir - Things To Do in Picturesque Town

Pahalgam

Pahalgam is famous for its scenic beauty and is the jewel of the picturesque Liddar Valley in the high Himalayas. It provides an ideal setting for hiking, trekking, and fishing. It is also the starting point of the annual pilgrimage to the holy cave of Amarnath. We think Pahalgam is a perfect destination to unwind and relax by the Liddar River which carries a gushing stream of water because of the slopes. We strongly recommend choosing a hotel by the river in this town and the one we stayed at was one of the best places we have stayed in across locations.

Most tourists undertake a valley tour from Pahalgam which takes you to three valleys over a half-day visit covering Aru Valley, Betaab Valley, and Chandabari Valley. Each of these are good locations to cover and provide good views of the Himalayas. On your way to Pahalgam, you will also pass through the Apple Valley where there are many apple farms. We recommend stopping by one of these and tasting the locally grown fruit. The sweetness of raw fruit or juice is definitely going to bowl you over.

For details on what to do in Pahalgam, please read Pahalgam - Explore the Most Beautiful Town in Kashmir

Learnings from our Kashmir Trip

Logistics and Planning

The government has mandated that only postpaid mobile connections are operational in the region. While this is to ensure strict monitoring requirements, it means that tourists need to be prepared. Carry a postpaid connection if you want to be connected to the world. We generally recommend a BSNL connection for such areas but Airtel works in most (not all) regions.
The security protocols at Srinagar airport are elaborate relative to other airports in India. Thus keep an extra buffer of time when boarding flights from Srinagar. There is an additional security check ahead of entry into the airport premises. You are required to take out all your luggage and take it through the X-ray machines. You can hire a porter for reasonable prices to help with this.
Local tourist operators have strong unions across the region. While you may book a car for your entire trip, the car is not allowed to take you on local sightseeing excursions at most places. You need to use a local car for those short journeys. So do not be surprised if your driver arranges another car for city tours. Also, be aware of what is included in your package as most tour packages subcontract to local operators who may want to save some bucks.

General Cautions for Kashmir Trip

We observed that the drivers consistently (and sometimes irritably) push for early starts. While it is understandable to some extent that because of military movement leading to closures and weather conditions, you could end up in Sonamarg at 9 AM with the hotel only allowing entry at 12 noon. So research carefully the travel times and when you want to be in your cities.
Research well on what you want to do while you are in Kashmir including approximate prices for each activity. Kashmir has been closed for various reasons for the last few years (Covid-19 and more) and hence the tourist operators are looking to make good on the lost time. There are heavy negotiations involved and most activities are within the unorganized sector. So do not be intimidated and engage in courteous negotiations.
Kashmir has a strong culture and there are other sensitivities involved. We would recommend additional caution while speaking in public and refraining from indulging in discussions on controversial topics. No big deal but we are "better safe than sorry" folks!

Do not be swayed by what we say!

While we have provided a list of what we did and what are some of the precautions while visiting Kashmir, these should not bind you in any way. Ours was a touristy trip so we covered most of those locations but the region is much more than that. If you have time, do make an attempt to explore the interiors. Also, the precautions are only to help you prepare better, do not get intimidated by these. Kashmir is a very beautiful region and Kashmiris are wonderful people - indulge and explore.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below or reach out to us on any of our social media coordinates - we are @KettleAndTravel on almost all of the platforms!

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Kashmir Trip in a Nutshell - Itinerary, Experiences, & Learnings

Kashmir - An Introduction